VW Type 82 Kübelwagen - Part 1

Over the last few days, I’ve built one of the S-Model kits — the Kubelwagen Ambulance variant. I’m still working out how I want to present these subprojects, but for now, I’ll be splitting them into two parts:

• Part 1: a short review of the kit, a few photos of the finished build, and some thoughts on how the unit fits into Battlegroup.

• Part 2: the painting and weathering stages, with a step-by-step breakdown of how I achieved each effect (that one might even need two parts to keep it manageable).

Anyway, enough of that — let’s jump into the review.

The Kit

The 1/72 S-Model Kubelwagen Ambulance is a surprisingly good little kit. It comes with both photo-etched and resin printed parts, which really elevate the overall quality and level of detail.

 I’m usually a bit hesitant about picking up kits off eBay, but this one really outshines its modest price tag — both in terms of fit and presentation.

What Works Well

This kit was a pleasure to build — the part fit and instructions were excellent. It’s small and simple, but that simplicity works in its favour.

The photo-etched parts are sturdy and don’t bend easily when handled. There aren’t many of them, but they add some great visual interest and help the model stand out on the table.

The surface detail is crisp and well placed. Everything you’d expect is there — and more importantly, there aren’t any glaring blank spots where detail has been skipped.

I also had an aftermarket photo-etch set on hand, but honestly didn’t need to use it — the kit’s own detail was more than enough. The only piece I did use was the dashboard, which added a subtle but nice finishing touch.

What Doesn’t Work So Well

Honestly, there isn’t much to fault here. If you’re a modeller after a highly detailed, true-to-scale build, you might find it a little simplified. But for a wargamer, it’s spot-on.

My only real gripe is with the wheels — they’re serviceable but not amazing. I swapped mine out for replacements from Clean Prop, which have sharper tread and more realistic proportions.

Overall, for what it offers, this is a great value kit and a nice little addition to my growing 12. SS Platoon.

Using It in Battlegroup

To be honest, I’ve never fielded a Medic unit before. They always seemed a bit expensive for what they do — and while Battlegroup isn’t meant to be competitive, I do like getting good value for my points. 

For comparison, the Kubelwagen Ambulance costs 14 points, whereas for just 6 points more (and one less BR) you can get an Sd.Kfz. 222 armoured car — a far more versatile option for my style of play. 

In-game, the Medic rule allows you to attempt to save one casualty per turn by rolling a D6 — on a 5+, a single causality is saved. This can only happen once per turn. The only real difference between the ambulance and a medic on foot is that the latter can be attached directly to a squad (stated in the FAQ), though the underlying rule remains the same.  

It’s a neat thematic rule, but it does feel a bit limited. With Battlegroup’s second edition on the horizon, I’m curious to see if this mechanic gets revisited — particularly since it applies equally to both vehicle and foot medics. 

Right now, I’d say the Ambulance is a great modelling opportunity but a weak tactical choice. I’ll try it in a few games to see if it surprises me, but on paper, it doesn’t really suit the way I tend to play.

Final Thoughts

The S-Model Kubelwagen Ambulance is a simple, satisfying build that delivers excellent value for the money. It’s well detailed, easy to assemble, and fits beautifully into a 20mm wargaming collection.

While it may not see much action on the Battlegroup battlefield, it’s still a fun and characterful project that adds personality to any German force — and that’s worth it on its own.

The 12. SS Panzer Division - A New Project

Today I’m embarking on a mission to replicate a selection of units from the 12. SS Panzer Division “Hitlerjugend.” I won’t be recreating the entire division—20,000+ individual figures would be an endeavour I’m not willing to entertain!

A Brief History

The 12. SS Panzer Division “Hitlerjugend” was formed in 1943, made up largely of volunteers from the Hitler Youth and veteran officers and NCOs transferred from the 1st SS Panzer Division “Leibstandarte.” The division was equipped with some of the best vehicles available to the German army at the time, including the Panther tank, and was considered a highly motivated, if inexperienced, formation.

Their baptism of fire came in June 1944 during the Battle of Normandy, when the division was rushed to counter the Allied landings near Caen. The young troops fought fiercely in actions around Authie, Carpiquet, and Hill 112, earning a reputation for determination but also for heavy losses and fanatical resistance.

By August, after weeks of intense combat and relentless Allied air and artillery attacks, the 12. SS was effectively shattered during the retreat from the Falaise Pocket. Despite its brief existence as a full-strength formation, the division’s stand in Normandy has since become one of the most well-known examples of German armoured resistance during the campaign.

The Project So Far

While researching this project, I’ve come across a number of interesting photos and videos that have inspired specific models and figures I plan to build:

Obersturmbannführer Kurt “Panzer” Meyer

Kurt Meyer was one of the most recognisable figures of the 12. SS Panzer Division. Initially the commander of Panzergrenadier-Regiment 25 during the Normandy campaign, he was promoted to lead the division after Fritz Witt was killed by naval gunfire. His leadership and aggressive style made him both respected and controversial.

For Meyer, I’m using an officer from the AB Figures Officer Pack 2 (AB-ING25). As always, I can’t go past AB — their sculpts are second to none and an absolute pleasure to paint. I may even write a review of these figures if readers are interested, because they really are to die for.

Sd.Kfz. 171 Panther Ausf. A

The Panther was the backbone of the 12. SS Panzer Regiment during the Normandy campaign, combining strong armour, mobility, and the deadly 75 mm gun. Panthers from this division fought in numerous engagements around Caen and Hill 112.

I’m using the Dragon 7546 kit, picked up from CyberHobby. Dragon’s attention to detail is excellent, and their range of German vehicles is second to none. This one was reasonably priced, came with free shipping, and should make a great base for adding custom Zimmerit with Milliput.

VW Type 82 Kübelwagen

The Kübelwagen was the workhorse utility vehicle of German forces throughout the war. In Normandy, these vehicles were used for reconnaissance, communication, and command transport within the 12. SS Panzer Division.

I’m building two kits — SP-072032 and SP-072034 — both limited releases from S-Model. This will be my first experience with S-Model kits, and I’ve heard great things about their simplicity and crisp moulding. One will be built as the ambulance variant, the other as a radio vehicle.

Sd.Kfz. 166 “Brummbär”

Although not an organic part of the 12. SS Panzer Division, Brummbärs fought alongside them during the defence of Normandy. Their heavy armour and 150 mm gun made them devastating in urban fighting.

For this build, I’m using Dragon 7242, a kit I’ve had sitting on the shelf for quite a while. With the new edition of Battlegroup on the horizon — and rumours of revamped HE rules — this seemed like the perfect time to finally put it together and add some extra punch to my platoon.

Sd.Kfz. 140 Flakpanzer

The Sd.Kfz. 140 Flakpanzer was a rare and distinctive anti-aircraft vehicle based on the Czech 38(t) chassis. A handful fought in Normandy, providing mobile air defence for German armoured formations, including elements of the 12. SS.

This one’s the Unimodel UM348 kit. I’ve built a few UM kits before — they can be a little fiddly, but the detail is excellent once assembled. I’m really looking forward to seeing how this one turns out.

Infantry Progress

Most of my infantry are already complete, though I’m currently halfway through another squad. By the end of the project, I should have at least a platoon-plus of infantry with supporting weapons.

Final Comments

I have no idea how long this project will take — but I’m genuinely excited to get started, keep myself accountable, and (hopefully!) actually finish this one… unlike a few others I could name. 

If you’re interested in seeing how it all comes together, follow along as I build and paint the 12. SS Panzer Division — I’ll be posting updates as each piece of the project takes shape.

I also came across this — combat footage showing elements of the 12th SS Panzer Division engaging Canadian tanks in Normandy, filmed in either June or July 1944.

Painting Faces — A Quick Guide

For my first “tutorial,” I wanted to share a quick and simple method for painting miniature faces that pop in close-up photos while still looking great on the tabletop.

Start with a Great Model

Every good paint job begins with an even better miniature. Starting with a high-quality sculpt makes the process so much easier. Personally, I find it hard to go past AB Figures. That’s not to say other manufacturers make bad models—far from it—but AB Figures just hit the sweet spot for me. Even if you wargame in another scale, I’d encourage you to check them out; their sculpts are little works of art.

Priming and Base Colour

For faces, I usually start with a dark primer—either dark brown or black. In this case, I used black. The exact primer isn’t too critical, but keep in mind that a darker base will take a few extra layers to build up to your mid-tone.

For this example, I’m using two colours from the AK Interactive Figures range:

• Light Flesh (AK11402)

• Highlight Flesh (AK11403)

To create the base, I thin Light Flesh with AK Interactive Drying Retarder in about a 60/40 ratio (paint to retarder). The retarder helps extend drying time and keeps the paint smooth.

Apply this mix in thin layers. The first coat will look patchy—don’t worry. After a couple of layers, you’ll have an even, opaque base that’s ready for highlighting.

Building Up the Highlights

Next, mix Light Flesh and Highlight Flesh 50/50. Use this to pick out the raised features—the nose, cheeks, chin, and brow. Try to cover about 60–80% of the face. This subtle layering builds the transition that makes the face come alive.

Now, switch to pure Highlight Flesh for the final highlights. Focus on the most prominent points: the tip of the nose, tops of the cheeks, chin, and brow ridge. Avoid completely covering your previous layer—you’re aiming for contrast and definition.

Adding Depth with a Wash

To tie everything together and add warmth, I use Pro Acryl Flesh Wash mixed 50/50 with Pro Acryl Glaze Medium. Apply this over the entire face, letting it flow into the recesses. Be careful not to let it pool on the raised areas—we want to deepen the shadows, not darken the highlights.

Finishing Touches

For that final pop, go back with a small amount of Highlight Flesh and add the tiniest strokes to the highest points of the face. Think of it as catching the light—less is more here. This final step really makes the features stand out.